Tag · 3 articles
climbing
how to·8 min read
The Rock Climbing Lead Endurance Test: Timing Forearm Pump Onset With a Fingerboard Decay Curve
Grip testing misses when the pump actually hits mid-route. This protocol times hold-time decay across repeated hangs to pin down the exact moment.
climbing·rock-climbing·forearm-pump
how to·8 min read
The Bouldering Lock-Off Test: Measuring Static Hold Time Across Elbow Angles
Most lock-off failures aren't a finger problem. This protocol times static holds at four elbow angles to find exactly where a climber's lock breaks down.
climbing·bouldering·lock-off
guides·9 min read
Sport Climbing Lead Forearm Recovery: Interval Training to Speed Blood Flow Between Rests
Climbing forearm recovery stalls when a shake-out won't clear the pump. This interval conditioning protocol trains faster blood flow return at rest stances.
climbing·forearm-recovery·blood-flow